Note: Instead of using beef stock in this dish, you could simply add a beef marrow bone to the pot and use plain water. But you will have to skim off the dirty bubbles that rise to the surface for the first 30 minutes or so of simmering. Discard the bone at the end of cooking.

Ingredients:

1kg shin of beef (boneless weight), cut into thick strips, about 2 x 6cm
250g pancetta, cut into chunky cubes
1 tablespoon olive oil or dripping
1 large onion, thickly sliced
3 large carrots, cut into 4cm lengths
4 celery sticks, cut into 4cm lengths
2 bay leaves
A sprig of thyme, if handy
1 litre beef stock
250g small macaroni, risoni (rice-shaped pasta) or other soup-friendly pasta
Salt and freshly ground black pepper

Heat the olive oil or dripping in a large, heavy-based frying pan. Gently fry the pancetta until it is lightly browned and the fat runs. Transfer the pieces to a casserole but leave the frying pan on the heat. Now brown the shin meat in the same pan, in batches, transferring them to the casserole once they are lightly coloured. Finally sweat the onion in the frying pan, but do not allow it to colour. Transfer to the casserole when soft and translucent. Add the carrots, celery, bay leaves and thyme to the casserole. Pour over the stock and add a little water if you need it to cover the meat – it should be covered by a good couple of centimetres. Season sparingly with salt and pepper. Bring to a simmer and cook, uncovered, at a very low, tremulous simmer, for 21/2–3 hours, until the meat is completely tender. You can cook it in a low oven (140°C/Gas Mark 1), if you like. Check and adjust the seasoning. Just before serving, cook the pasta in a large pan of boiling salted water until al dente, then drain. Add to the soup and serve in warmed bowls, with plenty of the juice ladled over.