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Brandade

Brandade

Brandade is a traditional Provençal dish, and a very rich and comforting one.  The combination of buttery mash, salty fish and plenty of garlic really hits the spot.  It's a versatile creation too.  You can serve it as a main course, accompanied by a crisp winter salad or braised greens, or turn it into a starter or snack, spreading it on slices of wholemeal toast.  In fact, served in even smaller portions, it makes a lovely and very easy canapé.  We also sometimes make it with smoked fish, poaching the fillet in milk till tender, then using some of the fishy, smoky milk in the mash.

 

Ingredients:

250g hard-salted white fish, such as pollack, ling, haddock, whiting or cod.

500g floury potatoes, peeled and cut into chunks

25g unsalted butter

About 50ml hot milk

4-6 tablespoons olive oil

2-3 large garlic cloves, finely chopped

1-2 tablespoons double cream (optional)

Freshly ground black pepper

 

Soak the fish in cold water for 48 hours, changing the water at least twice a day.

 

Put the soaked fish in a pan, cover with fresh water and bring to a simmer.  Cook gently for 10-15 minutes, until tender, then drain.  Pick over the fish, discarding the skin and any bones, and break the flesh into flakes.

 

Boil the potatoes in lightly salted water until tender, then drain.  Mash them thoroughly with the butter and hot milk to get a soft but not sloppy mash.

 

Heat 2-3 tablespoons of olive oil in a small pan over a low heat.  Add the garlic and sweat gently in the oil for 2-3 minutes, without letting it colour.

 

Put the flaked fish in a food processor and pulse several times, trickling in the warm garlic and olive oil as you do so (or, more traditionally, pound everythng together in a large pestle and mortar).  Then add another 2-3 tablespoons olive oil, and the double cream (if you're feeling really greedy), and pulse/pound again.  Transfer the puréed fish mixture to a large bowl and combine with th mashed potato, beating thoroughly so they are well mixed together (don't at any point process the potatoes in a machine, as it makes them gluey and spoils the dish).  Seaon to taste with black pepper - you probably won't need any salt.

 

To heat before serving, spread the brandade in an overproof dish and bake for 15-20 minutes in a fairly hot oven (190ºC/Gas Mark 5), until piping hot.