A good Welsh rarebit is so much more than cheese on toast. It’s quick-fix comfort food of the highest order, and a great dish with which to confront a cold snap.

Serves 4

Ingredients:

450g smoked pollack or haddock fillet
500ml whole milk
50g butter
1 large or 2 medium leeks, split lengthways, washed and finely sliced
35g plain flour
100g medium-strong cheddar, grated
1 good tsp English mustard
salt and freshly ground black pepper
4 large slices wholemeal bread
1 tbsp roughly chopped flat leaf parsley 

Put the smoked pollack or haddock in a large pan and pour over the milk (it should just cover it). Bring to the boil, then turn off the heat and leave for a couple of minutes until the fish is just cooked – i.e. it breaks easily into flakes. Remove the fish from the milk (keep the milk) and set aside to cool. Break into large flakes, double-checking for any bones or bits of skin, which should be discarded.

Melt the butter in a saucepan over a medium heat, add the leek and sweat gently for 5-10 minutes, or until it’s soft. Meanwhile, reheat the fish poaching milk if it’s cooled down. Stir the flour into the leeks, so it makes a paste with the butter. Gradually add the fishy milk, starting with about half of it, and stirring well, so you form a thick, leeky white sauce. When the sauce is smooth and thick (you might not need all the milk), let it cook for a minute or two, then add the grated cheddar, the mustard and plenty of black pepper. Taste and add salt too if you think it needs it, though the fish will have made the milk quite salty. Gently stir in the flaked fish.

Toast the bread. Spread the cheesy, fishy, leeky mixture over the toast and grill under a hot grill until bubbling and golden. Serve straight away.