Hugh's Christmas Goose
Goose is a Christmas institution in Hugh’s house and these recipes have become a bit of a signature for him. A traditional roast for Christmas day, and a salami-style stuffed neck, a confit of the legs for Boxing day. Of course, like Hugh, you could serve all three in succession on the big day itself but for a more thrifty approach, the confit of legs can be preserved for months, covered with the precious goose fat.
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Stewed venison
You can vary this according to the cuts of venison available. Even
larger cuts that are still on the bone, such as shanks and neck, are
good, not least as the bones will enrich the liquor as the stew cooks,
so you probably won't need any extra stock. Another nice variation is
to use chunks of spicy chorizo instead of pancetta...
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Celeriac soup
This velvety-smooth soup, all creamy and comforting, takes very
kindly to being garnished with a little of something salty, or spicy or
tangy...
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Honey-spiced figs
Easy peasy and very greedy. A proper dinner party pud that takes minutes, if not seconds, to put together...
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Medieval Gingerbread
This makes a very authentic medieval biscuit with a coarse, crumbly texture. If you like, you can replace half the breadcrumbs with flour to get a crisper, more delicate result.
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Radicchio and Chilli Pasta Sauce
I learned to make this piquant and bitter pasta sauce many years ago at the River Café in London. It still gets a regular outing at home, as it is very quick and easy to prepare. Put your chosen pasta (try using penne, ridged pasta quills) on to boil just before you start to fry the pancetta and by the time the sauce is finished, the pasta will be ready. I prefer not to serve Parmesan cheese with this dish but you can if you like.
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Roast Beef – The Full Monty
This is not just a Sunday lunch, it’s a celebration of all that is exciting about good meat. Now that I produce my own beef, of such high quality (he said modestly), the roast beef experience is more celebratory than ever. In fact it’s about as special a meal as I can cook for close friends and family, and it now alternates with goose as our Christmas dinner.
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Yorkshire Pudding
I like to make a single pudding in a big roasting tin, then slice it, rather than create individual Yorkshire puddings. It looks better and feels more generous.
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Beef Bone Gravy
This is not really a gravy but a classic stock reduction that can be prepared well in advance.
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Perfect Roast Potatoes
This is not so much a recipe as a few tips for achieving the desirable crispy-but-not-black outside and fluffy interior that we all know we love.
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Creamed Sprouts with Chestnuts and Bacon
Some people think they don’t like Brussels sprouts. Try this simple and delicious concoction on them and ask them to think again. It works as a great accompaniment to the Christmas roast, be it goose or turkey or (especially) a hot, glazed Christmas ham. But it’s also a nice winter supper dish on its own.
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Chestnut and Chocolate Truffle Cake
This is a really wonderful soft and gooey chocolate cake, which can be served warm or cold as a pudding. It makes a great alternative for anyone who’s not so keen on traditional Christmas pudding – and it’s also an absolute doddle to make.
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Real Meat Mincemeat
This is a recipe from the good old days, when mincemeat was what it said it was – a highly spiced condiment containing meat. This makes some people squeamish, but really there is nothing to fear. The meat is ‘invisible’. But its inclusion means that mince pies made from this mincemeat are less sweet and sickly than the usual fare, and have more body and substance. I guarantee you will love them.
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Shin of beef with macaroni
This is really a procedure to make a variety of hearty, soupy stews to warm your toes in bleak weather. It could easily be adapted to make a rabbit stew, or a mutton broth. Whatever your principal ingredients, you’ll end up with meltingly tender meat in a thin but very tasty juice. Bolstered with macaroni, and eaten in a bowl to catch plenty of the well-flavoured liquor, it makes a perfect one-pot winter supper.
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The River Cottage Multibird Roast
You need a whole free range turkey (not a monster, 10-12 kilos is about right) and a whole goose (6-7kg). And then a selection of 8-10 smaller birds, all plucked and drawn (ie oven ready). You don’t need all eight birds to be different – you could use, say, three pheasants and five pigeons.
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