River Cottage

1. Put the potatoes in a pan, cover with cold water and add a good pinch of salt. Bring to the boil, simmer for 8 minutes, then drain well and return to the empty pan to steam off for a few minutes.

2. Put the oil or fat in a large roasting tin and place in an oven preheated to 200C/Gas Mark 6 until smoking hot. Meanwhile, generously season the potatoes in their pan, then rough them up: either hold the lid on and give the pan a little shake or use a sharp fork to scratch their surfaces.

3. When the oil is smoking hot, tip in the potatoes. Baste them well with the oil, then return the tin to the oven for 45 minutes, giving them a stir after about 30 minutes. By this stage, the potatoes should be almost done - i.e. have a golden crust all over but look as if they could still take a bit more crisping up. Create a space in the middle of the tin for the fish.

4. Add the fish to the tin, sprinkle it with salt and pepper, then tuck in the bay leaves. Return to the oven for 10-15 minutes, until the fish is just cooked. Serve at once, with pea puree or mushy squash and, by all means, ketchup - or roasted tomato sauce.