River Cottage

There are two basic ways of making marmalade. My first choice is the sliced fruit method, which involves cutting the raw peel into shreds before cooking. I find this technique produces a brighter, clearer result. However, the whole fruit method, in which the fruit is boiled whole before being cut up, is easier and less time-consuming. It tends to create a darker, less delicate preserve – but that, of course, might be exactly what you want. I’ve given you both methods here ...

Sliced fruit method

Scrub the oranges, remove the buttons at the top of the fruit, then cut in half.

Squeeze out the juice and keep to one side. Using a sharp knife, slice the peel, pith and all, into thin, medium or chunky shreds, according to your preference.

Put the sliced peel into a bowl with the orange juice and cover with 2.5 litres water.

Leave to soak overnight or for up to 24 hours.

Transfer the whole mixture to a preserving pan, bring to the boil then simmer slowly, covered, until the peel is tender. This should take approximately 2 hours, by which time the contents of the pan will have reduced by about one-third.

Stir in the lemon juice and sugar. Bring the marmalade to the boil, stirring until the sugar has dissolved.

Boil rapidly until setting point is reached, about 20–25 minutes.

Remove from the heat. Leave to cool for 8–10 minutes – a little longer if the peel is in very chunky pieces – then stir gently to disperse any scum, pour into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately.

Use within 2 years.

Whole fruit method

Scrub the fruit, remove the buttons at the top and put it, whole, into a preserving pan with 2.5 litres water. Bring to the boil then simmer, covered, for 2–2½ hours or until the orange skins are tender and can be pierced easily with a fork.

When cool enough to handle, take the oranges out. Measure and keep the cooking water – you should have about 1.7 litres. Make it up to this amount with more water if you have less, or bring to the boil and reduce if you have more.

Cut the oranges in half and remove the pips with a fork, flicking them into a bowl. Strain any juice from the pips back into the cooking water, then discard the pips.

Meanwhile, cut up the orange peel and flesh into thick, medium or thin shreds. Put the cut-up fruit into the strained cooking liquid. Add the lemon juice and sugar and bring to the boil, stirring until the sugar has completely dissolved. Bring to a rolling boil and boil rapidly until setting point is reached, about 10–15 minutes.

Leave to cool for 10–12 minutes – a little longer if you’ve cut the peel into very chunky pieces – then stir gently to disperse any scum, pour into warm, sterilised jars and seal immediately. Use within 2 years.