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Devilled kidneys

Originally a popular Victorian breakfast dish, devilled kidneys sometimes make an appearance in today’s full-English fry-ups. It makes a lovely light lunch, or even a tasty starter. The sauce is particularly good.


Cut the kidneys into quarters and trim out the whitish core.

Set a medium-large frying pan over a high heat. When it is hot, add the lard or oil, followed by the kidneys.

Don’t stir them straight away – give them a chance to brown a little before tossing them in the pan. After about 1½ minutes, add the brandy (if you’re cooking on gas it may ignite, so be careful).

Let it bubble and reduce down, then add the cider vinegar, Worcestershire sauce, mustard, cayenne and fruit jelly. Stir to combine.

Now stir in the cream and allow the liquor to bubble and reduce down to a thick coating consistency. Taste and adjust the seasoning or cayenne heat as required. Finish with freshly chopped parsley. Serve the kidneys with fried bread, or good sourdough toast.

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  • 4 very fresh pig’s kidneys
  • 1 tbsp lard or olive oil
  • A small glass of cider brandy
  • 1½ tbsp cider vinegar
  • A healthy shake of Worcestershire sauce
  • 1 tbsp English or Dijon mustard
  • A pinch of cayenne pepper
  • 1 heaped tsp redcurrant, crab apple or other fruit jelly
  • 2–3 tbsp double cream
  • Sea salt and freshly ground black pepper
  • Chopped flat-leaf parsley, to finish

This recipe is taken from...

River Cottage Pigs & Pork handbook