Lemony Samphire and Peas
Salty, succulent marsh samphire is at its best during June and July, which is just when fresh peas are at their peak. The two ingredients pair beautifully, as this simple dish demonstrates. When you are shopping, ask for British samphire, as it’s often imported, even in season. Alternatively, you may be able to forage for it yourself if you’re at the coast, near muddy tidal estuaries.
Servings 4
Ingredients
About 200g marsh samphire
3 tbsp extra virgin olive or rapeseed oil
1–2 tbsp lemon juice
200g freshly podded small peas (about 500g in the pod), or frozen petits pois
1–2 tbsp coarsely chopped flat-leaf parsley
Sea salt and black pepper
Method
Prepare the samphire by washing it thoroughly and trimming away any coarse stems. Chop or break it into short lengths.
Combine the extra virgin oil and 1 tbsp lemon juice in a medium bowl. Add a small pinch of salt (the samphire is naturally salty) and some black pepper. Whisk together and set aside.
Bring a large saucepan of water to the boil (don’t add salt), then tip in the samphire and peas. Begin timing as soon as you add the veg to the water, before it’s returned to the boil. After 2 minutes, check a piece of samphire. If it is tender, drain the whole panful of veg into a colander. If not, cook for a minute more, then test again, erring on the side of caution. You don’t want the samphire to overcook.
Leave the samphire and peas to drain and cool just for a minute or two, then tip the hot veg into the bowl with the dressing and toss together. Taste and add more salt, pepper and/or lemon juice if needed.
Transfer to a serving bowl and scatter over the parsley. If you come across any fibrous bits of samphire, just tease the tender flesh off the central fibre with your teeth.
Swaps
Peas: Baby broad beans are excellent in place of the peas.
Herbs: Snipped chives – and a few tiny chive flowers if you happen to have them – are a lovely alternative to parsley